Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Amsterdam Pictures

I almost forgot.



Dutch bicycle
The Royal Cathedral of... oh wait, that's the mall
outside the Rijksmuseum

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Amsterdam


Ocotober 19

Well! Amsterdam was indescribable. It was easily the best trip I’ve ever travelled (no offense Mom and Dad). That said, I would like to formally thank my parents for all of the experiences they’ve opened me up to through our travels together. The trips we did as a family surely taught me invaluable lessons about time management, a traveler’s attitude, and more. It goes without saying that my trip to Amsterdam would not have been the experience it was without the tutelage I received from my parents as a budding young globetrotter.
Let’s start with my thoughts on my first relatively independent adventure (I say relatively because I certainly relied on Maren for many logistical components of our trip, but I think we worked well as a team). I was wholly unprepared for the high level of intensity that accompanies planning and executing a successful trip. I can deal with constant walking, constant waiting, or any state of inertia in between. The variable that catalyzes physical fatigue and introduces exhausting mental and emotional stress is the responsibility. It’s a different dynamic than my previous trips. It isn’t very taxing to have unconditional faith in your parents as tour guides/navigators. In the past, I need only keep up with the pack and make a fuss when my stomach was empty or my bladder was full to enjoy a perfectly pleasing holiday. But for this go ‘round, I was in complete control. I was in control of whether I ate or went hungry, whether I was clean or smelled like a Dutch dumpster (which smell mostly of old cheese and French fries), whether I sopped up every bit of Dutch culture I could in 3 days or stared at a wall in the hostel (again, I owe thanks to Maren for sharing these responsibilities with me. But, my point is that the workload had skyrocketed from 0% to 50%). I’m writing this down not to lament the squandering of a long weekend, but rather to illustrate the fact that the outcome of your travels resides, for the most part, in your own hands. Independent travel is an incomparably liberating concoction with distinct notes of sheer terror.
So, with all of my insidey feelings about travel covered, we can proceed to the substance of the voyage. The first day, in an attempt at blending in with the locals, we rented bicycles (which made blending in difficult as they only rent vibrant yellow bikes to tourists; we were like caution signs on wheels). We spent the entire first day exploring Amsterdam by bicycle. It was breathtaking. The peaceful canals effortlessly slip through the carefully laid out cobbled streets. We became utterly lost more than a few times, but we really didn’t care. There was nothing on the agenda but exploration. I was amazed at how quiet the city was. Amsterdam is a huge city (over 1 million people) that doesn’t feel the need to impose itself upon you. It’s funny that the lack of chaos doesn’t come off as quaint or simple. Likewise, the unimposing character of the city doesn’t take away from its beauty. This is what was rolling through my head as we explored, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, as well as, unarguably, one of the most historically rich sites on the continent.
The second day was dedicated to the Anne Frank Huis. I’m not going to try and describe the superficial or even my own feelings. It’s simply something that no one should ignore if they have the opportunity to see. One of the aspects I can describe is my admiration for Otto Frank (Anne’s father). The fortitude and patience he must have expended in undertaking such a painful and monumental project is unfathomable. After completing the museum, Otto spent his remaining twenty or so years spreading cultural/religious understanding and coexistence, as well as the undesirable task of defending his daughter’s diary against claims of forgery, and sometimes outright fraud, from neo-nazi groups.
It was an appropriately somber and rainy day and Anne Frank’s house was certainly the topic that occupied our thoughts and time that day.
Dinner on Saturday is certainly a worthy adversary in the competition for my most treasured experience. It was all Maren’s idea. She stumbled across a site called “Like-a-Local.” It is a network of internationally friendly couples or individuals that open their homes, culture and, in our case, South African bottles of wine, to tourists looking to get a more personal cultural experience. We arrived nervously at the portside apartment Marikke (mahr-eeka) and Peter, not knowing what to expect. My biggest fear was that their English would be as poor as my Spanish and we’d just pass the time between awkward silences talking about how the Dutch put mayonnaise on their fries while American prefer ketchup. I could not have been more wrong. Both spoke superb English (Peter’s may have been better than mine), plus a whole host of European languages (between them they spoke English, Dutch, German, French, Italian, ad infinitum). Given this reservoir of linguistic competency, we naturally asked if they planned on teaching any foreign languages to their children (Emille – 2.5 Kaspar – 4 sidenote: the children served us our hor d’eouvers of raw herring which was delicious) and they told us no. Their reason? They have faith in the Dutch education system to foster their children’s language skills to the level of their parents. That was astounding to me. And it isn’t curious to see why. After six years studying the language, my Spanish could be generously labeled functional and I’m a statistical outlier in the US education system. We talked about this at some length and they had a handful of other insights that made us pause and think. Our other topics of conversation included Dutch history (specifically, the Golden Age of the Dutch Trading Companies, Dutch navy, Rembrandt, etc.), travel, employment and food. They were a truly engaging couple. Their willingness to pioneer an idea as free thinking as Like-a-Local speaks to their mettle. As the evening wound down, Peter and Marikke gave us suggestions for bakeries and highlighted the Rijksmuseum, a gallery filled with art produced at the peak of the Golden Age of the Netherlands. It was an unforgettable evening with unforgettable people.
The Rijksmuseum was the last stop of our journey. In all its ostentatious splendor, it was a fitting finale for our last day. The beginning of the gallery was a small antechamber with paintings that were no less than 20X20 ft., depicting grand naval battles and another depicting the lavishly wealthy nobility flaunting their military decorum and fine silverware. Let’s just say it set the tone for the rest of the gallery. Most of the gallery was a tribute to opulence and was dripping with nationalistic sentiments. But that made it no less breathtaking, nor was the skill and precision of the artists lost in the greed that inspired it. My favorite part of the gallery was the Rembrandt collection. “The Night Watch” was my favorite painting in the gallery. I’m not an art critic, but that doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate the fruit of an artist’s labor. It does mean, however, that I can’t really explain it, so here’s a link http://www.rembrandtpainting.net/complete_catalogue/portraits/de.html. Another portrait I found interesting was a self-portrait in which Rembrandt depicts himself as Saint Paul (pretty bold for the youngest child of a Miller). http://www.rembrandtpainting.net/complete_catalogue/self_portraits/saint_paul.htm
I’m sorry I can only provide links; a better blogger would have their own personal photographs. However, security was tight and I rather like my digital camera.
            The rest of the time in Amsterdam was spend wandering about, taking in the city one last time. I said my goodbyes to Maren as she boarded her train to the airport. It would still be another 15 hours until I’d reach Granada. And I spent the time pathetically feeding the birds and dolefully eating my Wok-to-Go. In the Barcelona airport I slept on the filthy ground spooning my backpack. But even this undesirable final chapter couldn’t taint my experience.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

the end of creative titles

Sorry I haven’t been writing at all. I’d say I’ve been extremely busy, but that’s not entirely true. I did take a trip to Madrid the first weekend of October, but that only accounts for about 4 days. The truth is, after Madrid, I was tired. Classes started that Monday and I was marginally busy, but I was mostly figuring out my new schedule. But I’ve had the last three workdays off and I really haven’t been all that useful. I think it’s fair to say that I’ve been going between not having enough time to write, and having unlimited free time to write, in which case, what’s the point? Such is the nature of my constantly-rationalizing and slothful mind.
First item: Madrid. Madrid really was fantastic, but I’m going to cop out and primarily post pictures to relate the experience. Madrid is a lively place. It’s Gran Vía (roughly our Broadway) was truly a spectacle. I’ve never been to New York City’s Broadway, but I know how it’s laid out, and the Gran Vía was quite similar. There were plenty of theatres and huge marquees everywhere: very glamorous. I imagine it feels very much like New York without all the angry people. The scale of Madrid impressed me the most. It’s also curious to me that the cultural, financial and political centers of the country are in the same city in the majority of European countries. At first it seemed downright foolish to me. It would’ve been nothing short of insane if the founding fathers had decided to set up the legislature in New York City. A country that’s already weak and ripe for invasion becomes all the weaker and riper when you can knock out the political, financial and cultural foundations in one fell swoop. But of course, each country grows up in distinct circumstances. I just think it’s cool that you can see a country’s history in the complexion of its cities.
My classes are alright too. One class is about the European Union. I’ve learned a good deal about the meat-and-potatoes function and structure of the EU at school, but learning from a member of the EU and seeing the other side is incomparable. It helps that our professor is intelligent, engaging and has worked for the Ministry of Economics and now sits on a number of panels and groups that advocate bridging the gap between Europe and the Middle East. But that’s the real highlight of my schedule. Everything else is unbearably dry and or boring. The good news is it’s all easy, so a successful semester, academically speaker, is all but assured. And that’s really all you’ll hear about my “classes.” I am not here to study, I’m in Spain to learn the Spanish language, observe the culture, travel and have fun. All of those things take place outside of a classroom.
What’s really been occupying my mind lately is AMSTERDAM. It’s my first journey that has been planned and will be executed independently. The best part is I’ll be traveling with my girlfriend. We’ll be celebrating our 1-year anniversary in the Netherlands with boat tours, a private dinner with locals and other various cultural visits (i.e. Anne Frank house, Van Gogh and the multiplicity of other museums/galleries that Amsterdam has to offer). 
Royal Palace of Madrid
Outside the Prado
Aqueduct in Segovia
Royal Castle in Segovia
Royal Symbol of Madrid

spanish semester


Sorry I haven’t been writing at all. I’d say I’ve been extremely busy, but that’s not entirely true. I did take a trip to Madrid the first weekend of October, but that only accounts for about 4 days. The truth is, after Madrid, I was tired. Classes started that Monday and I was marginally busy, but I was mostly figuring out my new schedule. But I’ve had the last three workdays off and I really haven’t been all that useful. I think it’s fair to say that I’ve been going between not having enough time to write, and having unlimited free time to write, in which case, what’s the point? Such is the nature of my constantly-rationalizing and slothful mind.
First item: Madrid. Madrid really was fantastic, but I’m going to cop out and primarily post pictures to relate the experience. Madrid is a lively place. It’s Gran Vía (roughly our Broadway) was truly a spectacle. I’ve never been to New York City’s Broadway, but I know how it’s laid out, and the Gran Vía was quite similar. There were plenty of theatres and huge marquees everywhere: very glamorous. I imagine it feels very much like New York without all the angry people. The scale of Madrid impressed me the most. It’s also curious to me that the cultural, financial and political centers of the country are in the same city in the majority of European countries. At first it seemed downright foolish to me. It would’ve been nothing short of insane if the founding fathers had decided to set up the legislature in New York City. A country that’s already weak and ripe for invasion becomes all the weaker and riper when you can knock out the political, financial and cultural foundations in one fell swoop. But of course, each country grows up in distinct circumstances. I just think it’s cool that you can see a country’s history in the complexion of its cities.
My classes are alright too. One class is about the European Union. I’ve learned a good deal about the meat-and-potatoes function and structure of the EU at school, but learning from a member of the EU and seeing the other side is incomparable. It helps that our professor is intelligent, engaging and has worked for the Ministry of Economics and now sits on a number of panels and groups that advocate bridging the gap between Europe and the Middle East. But that’s the real highlight of my schedule. Everything else is unbearably dry and or boring. The good news is it’s all easy, so a successful semester, academically speaker, is all but assured. And that’s really all you’ll hear about my “classes.” I am not here to study, I’m in Spain to learn the Spanish language, observe the culture, travel and have fun. All of those things take place outside of a classroom.
What’s really been occupying my mind lately is AMSTERDAM. It’s my first journey that has been planned and will be executed independently. The best part is I’ll be traveling with my girlfriend. We’ll be celebrating our 1-year anniversary in the Netherlands with boat tours, a private dinner with locals and other various cultural visits (i.e. Anne Frank house plus the multiplicity of museums/galleries that Amsterdam has to offer). 
 
 

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Ketchup (catch up)

Howdy, it's been awhile. I haven't been extraordinarily busy since we last chatted, but here's what you've missed.
This weekend we went to Almería, a sleepy little puebla Southeast of Granada on the Mediterranean coast. We stayed in a fairly touristy hotel, but it was only about a 10 minute walk from the beach. I think the resounding winner of the whole weekend was the hotel dinner buffet. It was mostly seafood and it was all freshly caught, there was also an open bar so we enjoyed a nice bottle of red wine with our surf n' turf.
The beach was mostly gravel. By day, I skittered around from shade to shade and agonized over every moment I was in the intense sun, like a cockroach longing for the security found underneath the refrigerator.
The highlight of the trip was really when the sun went down. A big group of us brought drinks to the beach. The moonlight lit up the entire night, I don't think I'd ever seen it so bright. Mix that with the tranquil Mediterranean and good company and you have the makings of a great evening.
The general consensus was that the trip to the beach was just what the doctor ordered. We also all agreed that the last thing we really needed, with our extremely light class load (if you can even call our classes classes) and the once-in-a-lifetime experience of being set loose in Spain for 3.5 months, was a weekend getaway.
The other noteworthy tidbit from my week was, once again, open mic night. I think it's come full circle from me putting myself out there, to being a comfort activity that I look forward to every week. And I'm not sure that's a good thing. It's most certainly an American bar, although the owners are Irish. Open mic night may have run it's course (plus I'm running out of songs!)
I'll confess that I'm contemplating retirement not because I've reached a plateau of self-realization, but rather, I want to quit while I'm ahead. About 15 minutes before I took the stage, a friendly Canadian came up to me and said he really enjoyed my rendition of "Long Black Veil," that I had played last week. He was a burly fellow and he'd been living in Granada for about a year. I didn't catch his name, but he really made my night. I'm happy to take encouragement/praise from any stranger regardless of tone or credibility. But this guy seemed sincere AND he was quite talented himself. He took the stage for 3-4 songs and did a bang up job.
Tonight, I'm debating going to Granada 10, a discoteca in my neck-of-the-woods. Wednesday is ladies night and it's usually an absolute spectacle. Last week there were male dancers, one of whom had a rat tail down to his lower back. There are also group dancing activities led by the most flamboyantly fabulous MC I've ever seen. This time I promise pictures.

Saludos,

Erik 

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Open Mic Night: Round Two


I went to open mic night again at Hannigan’s yesterday. I was standing at the bar, ordering, when Andres, my English friend came up to me. We greeted one another and I told him I was just there to take in the music, and not to play. He gave me a sly look, and when my beer arrived, he pointed at it and said, “Right then, I’ll just let you lubricate yourself and we’ll chat later.” Well, later came and I told Andres I’d take the stage for a song. I only did it because I was seriously jonesing and I needed my guitar fix. But also, a lot of my friends where there and Andres, that “cheeky little twit,” proposed the idea of me playing when we were all together. So I played Long Black Veil, an American folk song of unknown origins. And in this unbiased observer’s opinion, I rocked it. My voice was cooperating and that guitar was made for folk. It was a great night, all in all. Only, there was a point when all the girls wanted to hear about Maren. Don’t get me wrong, I could sing her praises ‘till the cows come home, and I did. But talking about all the things that make her so great, really made me miss her. But, I cheered myself up and even accompanied Andres on the bongos while he played a simple little reggae song. Then I took the stage again as the night was winding down and a good time was had by all. But I can’t help feeling that weasely little Brit is just using me for my quasi-talent…

Pictures!

Credit: Sally Stadelman @ facebook.com
Credit: María Neufeld @ facebook.com





Sunday, September 12, 2010

Música Gratis


September 12

¡Que genial este Sábado!
Sebí made a delicious dinner of tortellini in a creamy red sauce and grilled chicken breast on the side; it was fantastic. Then John and I had a couple drinks before going our separate ways. I decided to meet up with my buddy Brett and check out the Delecuentes concert. It was a free show at a park down by the river. So we split a cab and we were dropped off at this unbelievably gaudy carnival that fed into the lot where the concert was held. We sipped our beer and people watched at the carnival and made our way into the venue.
            It was amazing; the opening band was a surprisingly good funk ensemble with an American front man. They played Sly and the Family Stone, Rick James and even a bit of Little Richard I think. It was good music, but almost as importantly, it reminded me of home and just made me feel good (when does funk not make you feel fine, honestly?). Los Delecuentes were nothing too special, but it was cool to see all the Spaniards get behind their favorite band. They come from Cadiz and, apparently, they are gaining momentum throughout the whole country. But Granada, being so close to home for those boys, has always been good to them. It’s great seeing a band whose affection for their fans is genuine, and I guess that’s all you can ask from a show.